From Corn to Market
Despite being an oftentimes funny documentary, there are scenes in King Corn that are downright scary. Directed by Aaron Woolf, a partner in Williamsburg’s Lodge restaurant and its General Store, the film follows two friends in a small Iowa town who plant, harvest and sell an acre of corn to find out what becomes of America’s most-subsidized crop.
If you’ve read Michael Pollan’s Omnivore’s Dilemma, you already know it doesn’t wind up as that buttered ear you eat with dinner. All that Midwestern corn is inedible, yet we wind up eating it because it is engineered to go into every processed food imaginable.
Both the film and book explain how we came to such an asinine point in our agricultural history, but there are choice scenes in King Corn that should be required viewing, like how making something as innocuous-sounding as high-fructose corn syrup is so toxic, it requires lab glasses and gloves. The film closes tonight at Cinema Village (click here for showtimes), but in its wake will be a natural market called Urban Rustic, set to open at the edge of McCarren Park by Thanksgiving mid-December December 14.
“However active filmmaking can be, you begin to idealize doing something instead of observing other people’s stories,” says Woolf, who together with longtime partner Dan Cipriani, and Luis Illades, were inspired by the film to open a grocery store that sells food and dry goods that come primarily from within a 100-mile radius. The theme of traceability runs throughout store, from the white pine floors, oak countertop, and 18-foot-high shelves all sustainably milled from Woolf’s Adirondack family property, to the Viewmasters placed throughout that will show the story of the food they sell.
Cipriani (left), who met Woolf when he was still working in film, is helping to build the 1200 sq. ft. market. During a tour of the woodsy-chic space this week, he described the vision for Urban Rustic: a table at the entrance will feature a different local producer each week, be it Bob McClure’s Pickles, or Clara Williams’s organic skinnyskinny soaps. In the back will be seating, indoor and out (though by spring they hope to have tables set up in the park). On the shelves, in the coolers, and at the counter will be dry goods, local produce, organic beers, a dairy and meat selection (stocked with grass fed and finished beef, of course), a rotating menu of fresh, prepared foods and soups, an organic salad bar, locally roasted fair trade coffee and sandwiches made from fresh-roasted meats.
It sounds like Whole Foods, but Cipriani is adamant that Urban Rustic prices won’t eat your paycheck.
“I don’t want to make it so that people feel like they can’t afford to feed themselves.” Nor is it important to know how the food’s grown. “They may not know their ham sandwich comes from free-range pork. It’s enough that they know they’re getting a good sandwich, and not paying $14 for it.”
Urban Rustic, 236 N. 12th St., 718-388-9444, urbanrusticnyc.com
Published on October 25th, 2007 under Food & Drink.

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